Antwerp, Belgium — Nick C. Bumstead

Antwerp is an ideal-sized city to explore for a few days to dip your toes in or go a little deeper and stay a week or more. It has a vibrant restaurant, shopping, and museum scene that will entertain the most cynical of travelers.

Background

Antwerp is a port city on the River Scheldt with a population of about 510,000 people. The Port of Antwerp is the second-largest seaport in Europe (Rotterdam is the largest) and has been a key part of the country’s trade since the Middle Ages. But its most famous characteristics might be its centuries-old diamond trade, Flemish Renaissance architecture, Flemish Baroque painter Peter Paul Rubens, and fashions Antwerp Six from the 1980s.

Getting Around

To explore most of the city, walking and biking are the easiest and best options, but there is also the bus and tram system, called De Lijn, as well as Uber and taxis of course. When walking around the city be aware that roads sometime look like pedestrian walkways and they are not. And be wary of all the bikers cycling quickly through the city.

When to Visit

To avoid the crowds and enjoy comfortable weather, spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) are the best times. Although when it comes to the weather, note that this is northern Belgium (Flanders) and the weather is very changeable. There always seems to be some rain in the forecast.

Neighborhoods

Historisch Centrum
The historical center where you’ll find the classic sites (Grote Markt, Cathedral, Groenplaats, Plantin-Moretus Museum). It’s full of quaint little streets and old buildings, which makes for an enjoyable walk around and experience. If you are only here for a couple of days and want to be near the sites, stay here, otherwise stay slightly further afield.

Universiteitsbuurt
The University quarter is east of the historical center and contains several university campuses, which makes it vibrant and active. Discover Rubens' tomb and 18th-century paintings in Saint Jacob’s Church as well as many outdoor cafes.

Sint-Andries
The neighborhood between the historic center and Het Zuid (The South) was originally one of the poorest neighborhoods in the old city. Today Kloosterstraat is home to design stores, antique shops, and cafes. It’s a lively district that is a perfect place to stay.

Theaterbuurt
The Theatre quarter in one of the most varied districts, which includes the bird market, the Saturday market, a range of shopping options from high end to more big-box stores, as well architectural gems.

Nieuw Zuid & Het Zuid
The southern end of the central city, along the river, that is home to the grand avenue of Leopold de Waelplaats where the Royal Museum of Fine Arts is located. Walk along the water to see the newly developed waterfront in Nieuw Zuid where the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Photo Museum are situated.

The Eilandje
New residential projects, the marina, and the Museum aan de Stroom (MAS) [Museum on the River] give this district a very different feel. At the top end is the Havenhuis, the Port Authority of Port of Antwerp-Bruges designed by Zaha Hadid, completed in 2016.

The Stadspark
Once you cross from the Theaterbuurt into The Stadspark neighborhood, things start to spread out a little. The grand renovated Central Station is located in this district, as well as the Stadspark and the Zoo.

Diamond Quarter (Diamantkwartier)
The square mile diamond district that used to be the world’s center for gem cutting and polishing. While much of the cutting and polishing is now completed in other parts of the world, about 80% of the world’s rough diamonds still pass through Antwerp.

Zurenborg
It’s worth walking around this residential neighborhood for an hour or so to experience the glorious mix of architecture styles (Art Nouveau, Gothic Revival, Neo-Renaissance, Greek Revival, Neoclassical, British Tudorbethan). The main streets are Cogels Osylei, Waterloostraat, and Transvaalstraat.

Groen Kwartier
Within the Berchem district is a neighborhood born from a restored 19th-century military hospital. The buildings have been turned into apartments, the chapel into a restaurant (The Jane), and an Augustinian convent into a hotel (August). There’s a modernness and calmness to the area. Also within the vicinity is PAKT, which feels like a hidden secret filled with restaurants, coffee shops, and cafes.

Where to Stay

Visit the historical center, but stay elsewhere. We found an AirBnB on Vleminckveld on the edge of Sint-Andries and Theaterbuurt, which was like an ideal location to feel more like a local, but close enough to walk to everything we wanted to see and do. Also nearby is the Botanic Sanctuary, a beautiful looking, high-end hotel which feels like it’s in its own enclave. Another fancy hotel, further afield is the August, which was highly recommended, but for a first time visitor to Antwerp, might be a bit too far from the action.

Goossens
This tiny bakery has been tempting locals and tourists since 1884. It’s so small that there seems to be a line even when there really isn’t. You’ll be happy to have a little time to choose from all the sweet and savory options on display. Don’t forget to take a second or two to appreciate beautiful interior design. Be tempted by everything, Antwerp is a fabulous walking city after all.

Broodatelier
An artisanal bakery created by three friends producing sweet and savory breads and pastries. Buy one of their loaves for your hotel room or apartment and snack on a sausage roll while walking along the street.

Chocolatier Del Rey
A chocolatier and bakery near the Central Station and the Diamond District. The display cases are filled with all kinds of treats: chocolates, pralines, macaroons, marzipan, cookies, pastries. The chocolates have the perfect balance of rich chocolate to exotic flavors. We also picked up some Apérostaafjes, delightful savory, crispy pastry sticks to pair with cocktails.

Exotic Market
The large Saturday morning market at the Theaterplein outside the Hetpaleis offers a huge array of shopping, browsing, and eating options: clothing, flowers, produce, seafood, meat, bread, spices, and prepared foods. We shopped for food in the morning, picking up some vegetables and fresh seafood, and came back for an early lunch of Belgian classics (shrimp, whelks, and oysters). You are really spoilt for choice.

Vogelenmarkt (Bird Market)
The bird market is a hold over from centuries gone by. We walked through the many stalls of pretty generic clothing, housewares, etc, wondering if we would actually see live birds. And just as we turned the corner onto Graanmarkt, expecting to head home, we found the several stalls with birds. It’s a fun little scene.

Brocantwerpen
Brocant translates to second-hand. This is a renowned flea market held about 6 to 10 times a year (on the last Wednesday of the month from April through September) at the Grote Markt. It may have been the time of day (later) or the time of year (late September), but it was a bit underwhelming, but made up for by the glorious location.

Books & Booze
Telling stories and drinking is an age old combination delightfully brought together at this little shop. The selection of books and wine / spirits have been beautifully (and sometimes humorously) curated. There’s a definite passion here. I asked for a local gin and after listening to some entertaining stories, I took home the Strange Donkey London Dry Gin. There is also a location in Ghent.

Amber Bottle Shop
Cool vibe, nerdy wine selection — this little natural wine shop / bar is tucked into a small space on Schermersstraat. Some of the wines are imported directly, but everything follows their natural ethos. They also have a few tables to enjoy wine and snacks there.

BBQ Cabbage & Vegetarian Dan Dan Noodles at Caminoi | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Camino
Open for lunch and dinner, but lunch at this modern Asian spot on the corner of a park, really revived the body and mind after our day of travel. The food is clean and refined, but also comforting and spicy. Dig into sashimi with Vietnamese dipping sauce, BBQ cabbage, Dan Dan Vegetarian noodles with mushrooms and wash it down with a ginger mint lemonade and a glass of natural wine. Their sister restaurant is Osaka (see below).

Mr. Pickles
A lovely locals-vibe respite from the touristy Grotemarkt. Whether you need an afternoon sit-down for coffee and cake or a more substantial lunch, Mr. Pickles hits the note. And while the sandwiches have a fun array of punchy flavors, they are definitely substantial. There’s a calm elegance to the whole experience, even when it’s crowded.

Frites with Mayonnaise & Piccalilli | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Frites Atelier
Having some frites in Belgium is pretty much a requirement. Frites Atelier has upgraded the frites stand experience. It may seem a little crowded and cramped, but they are organized and efficient. The frites are crispy, hot, and made to order. Mayonnaise is the classic, but don’t miss the other exciting options like Piccalilli or the more substantial toppings: Yakitori Chicken, Indo Peanut, Flemish Beef Stew.

Whelks & Grey Shrimp with Mayonnaise and Muscadet at Oesterbar at Saturday’s Market | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Oesterbar at Saturday’s Exotic Market
This oyster bar at the Saturday Market really packs them in. We got there early and picked a spot at the bar to watch all the preparations, but there are tons of tables. It’s all about the seafood, both raw and fried, along with wine and bubbles. Oysters and muscadet — perfect! By the time we left, the sun was shining and it was jammed.

Nordic 31
Not a classic Flemish restaurant, but the classics from Scandinavia have been brought to Antwerp via Nordic 31. The overlap is the seafood of course. When it comes to the Smørrebrød, they recommend two per person, but we had three between the two of us and left room for a cardamom bun. The highlights were the house-made pickled herring with pickled beats and the North Sea shrimp with a soft boiled egg.

If you are in Antwerp and Belgium for more than a couple of days and you love museums, it’s probably worth getting the Museum Pass which costs €59 and is valid for a year. Many of the museums in Antwerp are included.

Salvador Dalí’s “Landscape with a Girl Skipping Rope” [1936] at KMSKA (Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp) | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Plantin-Moretus Museum
This printing museum that’s on the UNESCO World Heritage list tops all the recommendations lists for a reason. It’s fantastic. Put your doubts aside and visit. It’s a combination of the 16th century mansion of the Plantin-Moretus family and their printing company that ran until the 19th century. They were the powerhouse of printing for centuries and the museum contains books, two of the world’s oldest printing presses, paintings, archives.

MAS (Museum aan de Stroom)
This museum sticks out in the Eilandje neighborhood as an island of modernity. Start with a trip to the roof for a beautiful panoramic view of the city. To the north is the vast port and to the south the city center sprawls out before you. On your way up the escalators take note of the exhibitions on each floor and enjoy them all on your way down. The roof terrace is free to visit without a museum ticket.

Sint-Pauluskerk (St Paul's Church)
Not the most obvious entrance to find (it looks like the entrance should be Nosestraat and Zwartzustersstraat, but it’s on Sint-Paulusstraat through a fairly subtle entrance). Finding it is the hard part, the easy bit is enjoying the treasure trove of artwork from the baroque period, including Rubens, Van Dyck, and Jordaens.

KMSKA (Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp)
The grand dame of the museums in Antwerp was reopened in 2022 after an 11-year refurb. The classical exterior is a cloak to the ultra-modern interior. And the way the art is displayed matches the same duality — Flemish masters are hung alongside contemporary sculptures. It can challenge the mind and body a bit with the maze of rooms and organization, but it’s a feast for the eyes and senses.

Rubenshuis
Closed when we visited in late 2024 due to renovations, but the garden was open. Ruben’s home is a lavish 17th-century mansion that has been a school, prison, warehouse in its history before becoming the museum. The garden with a flowing fountain is a lovely calming experience, even if it’s raining.

MoMu (Fashion Museum Antwerp)
Opened in 2002, MoMu has the world’s largest collection of contemporary Belgian fashion. The most recent autumn exhibition “Masquerade, Make-up & Ensor“ was fun, quirky, and interesting. It’s a quick visit, but worth it.

Museum Mayer van den Bergh
A dark neo-Gothic house turned museum on Lange Gasthuisstraat and next door to high-end fashion store Verso. Fritz Mayer van den Bergh was a 19th-century art dealer and collector of Flemish artwork from the Middle Ages to the 18th century. The museum was purpose built to house his collection after his death in 1901. If you visit early in the morning, you might be lucky enough to have the collection of diverse artwork to yourself.

FOMU (Photo Museum Antwerp)
Part of the redevelopment of the Nieuw Zuid neighborhood, the Photo Museum was once a warehouse. On our visit the Cindy Sherman exhibit was spread over multiple floors, but they often have multiple exhibits on show. And the gift shop is a fun stop on the way out.

Museum De Reede
Right on the water across from Het Steen Castle, a small museum that opened 2017 displaying mostly works on paper (lithographs, engravings, etchings, wood prints, drawings), with a focus on three artists: Francisco Goya, Félicien Rops, Edvard Munch. Munch’s black-and-white lithograph of The Scream is an obvious highlight, but the prints from other artists than the three focused artists really stood out.

DIVA, museum voor diamant, juwelen en zilver
A museum dedicated to diamonds, jewelry, and silver that at times can feel a little bit like a promotional space for the diamond industry, but overall provides an educational background, while also displaying very pretty and intricate jewelry pieces and silver artifacts. This museum opens before the Museum De Reede, so it’s possible to easily visit both before an early lunch.

Sint-Annatunnel
Such an elegant art deco blend of engineering and design. Opened in 1933 as the method for bicycles and pedestrians to cross the Scheldt River (Waasland Tunnel was built for motor traffic). St. Anna’s Tunnel still has vintage vibes and even if you don’t need to cross the Scheldt River, it’s worth taking the wooden escalators down the two levels.

Cogels-Osylei
In the Zurenborg district, Cogels-Osylei is gorgeous residential neighborhood filled with architectural gems in a variety of styles: Belle Epoque, Art Nouveau, Neo-Gothic, neoclassical, Tudor.

Walking along the waterfront in Nieuw Zuid | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Nieuw Zuid
Take stroll down the waterfront along the Scheldt River which has been redeveloped with broad walkways and places to hangout. Along the way down to Nieuw Zuid from Sint-Annatunnel check out the Zebrahuis at Goedehoopstraat, which was the first contemporary building on the river front. This black-and-white striped building was designed by Bob Van Reeth. Nieuw Zuid sits next to the river where railway tracks used to exist and has been designed with sustainability in mind. Sixty percent of the land will be for greenery, parks, gardens, and play areas.

Diamond Quarter
It’s a bit of a drab warren of streets, but worth a quick walk through to see where most of the world’s diamonds pass through. The main streets are Vestingstraat and Hoveniersstraat. Chocolatier Del Rey is on Appelmansstraat — explore the district while eating pralines.

Fashion is one of the key identities of Antwerp and has been that way since the The Antwerp Six came to fame in the 1980s. They were a group of fashion designers (Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs, Marina Yee) that studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts and became known as the Antwerp Six in the press after their impact at London Fashion Week in 1986. They were relatively unknown at the time; they drove a van from Antwerp to London; and the reporters couldn’t even pronounce their names. Fashion still plays a key part in exploring Antwerp, both with the remaining members of the Six (Demeulemeester, Van Noten, and Van Bierendonck), as well as new, modern labels and stores.

Modepaleis Dries Van Noten | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Modepaleis Dries Van Noten
It feels a bit like entering a temple when you step into Modepaleis Dries Van Noten. Even if you are not into fashion stroll around the store and up the stairs to the men’s department. It feels quiet, elegant, and luxurious.

Ann Demeulemeester
Just across the street from Royal Museum of Fine Arts on the bustling Leopold de Waelplaats. In addition to her beautiful women’s and men’s clothing, they also sell perfume and stunning homewares.

Verso
Art gallery, fashion museum, or shop? A high-end, chic luxury fashion-focused store, in a restored 16th century mansion, selling designers like Prada, Gucci, and Dior.

Essentiel Antwerp
Bright, fun, eclectic women’s clothing home-grown in Antwerp. There are a number of locations around the city (and one in New York City too).

Bellerose
With a number of stores across Belgium, France, and the Netherlands, this store sells fashion forward, but practical women’s and men’s clothing and accessories. If you under-packed for your trip to Belgium, meaning you forgot your raincoat, this could be a perfect spot to stock up.

Ganterie Boon
Looking for the perfect pair of gloves? This family-run shop has been selling gloves since 1884.

The Fornasetti room at Donum | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Donum
Gorgeous design pieces in a beautiful space. Donum showcases some of the best interior design brands (Fornasetti, Cassina, Knoll, Missoni) from around the world in the first floor of the former National Bank of Belgium building.

The Recollection
A fun, quirky, unique collection of homewares, cosmetics, gifts, accessories, and furniture, which fits perfectly on Kloosterstraat.

Wouters & Hendrix
Traditional and modern jewelry designed and handmade in their Antwerp atelier. The displays in the windows are stunning and it looks intimidating, but there are pieces at many prices.

Dinner at Ciro’s (Black Beauty (Horse) with Pepper Cream Sauce, Frites with Mayonnaise) | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Ciro’s
Classic and old school and still staying strong. It seemed a little quiet at the beginning of our 7pm reservation, but an hour in, the restaurant was bustling and crowded. The food is not creative, but there’s comfort and love in the local specialties. Start with shrimp croquettes, marrow on toast, smoked eel, or gravlax; move on to steak or horse fillet, if you are feeling more adventurous, or another classic of eel in green sauce, don’t miss the frites and mayonnaise; and finish with a Dame Blanche (vanilla ice cream with whipped cream and warm chocolate sauce). Definitely book ahead.

Le John
Elegant, sophisticated, yet relaxed — it really feels like you are having dinner at your cool friend’s house. Some classify Le John as a wine bar, but it definitely gives off more restaurant-vibes. The wine list is worth the visit, as is the food. The food menu tilts modern Italian with burrata, pasta, risotto, fish. The wine list is chock full of interesting natural wine classics from around the world.

Osaka
Hip clientele, a futuristic design, with Japanese-inspired food, and a long list of natural wines — well, not really a list because you choose your bottle of wine from the large, glass-fronted wine coolers. The plates are small and perfect for sharing. With all the peppy, Asian flavors you’ll keep on ordering until you are satiated. Don’t miss the Toast Sardine, Toro Crudo, Kimchi & Comté Croquettes. Book ahead.

Tomatoes, Wild Herbs, Black Garlic at Victor | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Victor
An industrial-vibed bistro filled with locals who come for a relaxed evening to enjoy serious, yet rustic food and a drink menu filled with interesting wines and ciders. Start with a glass of Belgian sparkling wine. Our whole meal was fantastic: bread and butter; buttermilk fried chicken; tomatoes with wild herbs and black garlic; tortelloni with basil and celeriac; and a bottle of Domaine des Marnes Blanches 2022 Cotes du Jura Savagnin Les Molates.

Strange Donkey London Dry Gin
I can’t help but always bring home a bottle of local booze from my travels — each pour at home reminds me of the trip. The Strange Donkey is a London Dry Gin made in Antwerp, whose name comes from a local legend. The local villagers decided to leave the decision as to where to build a church up to a donkey. Wherever it stopped to rest, they built the church. 17 of the 23 ingredients are grown in Vremde (which in the local dialect means ‘strange’), near Antwerp.

Elixir d'Anvers Liqueur
Crafted in Antwerp (Anvers) since 1863 using plants and herbs, including gentian, spice, caramel, peppery alcohol, root beer, brown sugar, chopped herbs, liquorice and vanilla.

Antwerpse Handjes (Hands)
They are a traditional symbol of Antwerp with a legend based on a Roman solder called Brabo who cut off the hand of the giant Antigoon who imposed a tax for each ship that wanted to enter the port. Brabo threw the severed hand in the Scheldt river. In Dutch hand throwing is “hand-werpe,” which over time became Antwerpen. The reality though might be that the city is on the tidal river Scheldt which deposits a lot of sludge on its banks — the continuous build-up of sludge in Dutch is “aangeworpen”. You can find handjes in both biscuit (cookie) form and of the chocolate variety.

Belgian Chocolates
An obvious, yet very worthwhile and enjoyable gift.

Homewares by Ann Demeulemeester
Taking Ann Demeulemeester’s characteristic style of chiaroscuro (an effect of contrasted light and shadow) and translating it into porcelain. Purchase from Serax.

Diamonds & Jewels
Antwerp is still the center of the diamond world, so why not take home a memento that will last forever.

Walking along the River Leie in Ghent | ©Nick C. Bumstead

There’s a good chance you’ll fly into Brussels and therefore will know that Antwerp is only 45 minutes on the train. But in addition to Brussels, Ghent is only an hour train ride from Antwerp and makes for an excellent day trip. Ghent is a medieval treasure, but also a university town and cultural hub, which gives a vibrancy. Bruges, which is an hour and a half train-ride, is also a beautiful medieval city with canals and is known at the Venice of Belgium, but can feel a bit more touristy than Ghent.

Don’t forget the north… visit Europe’s largest port, Rotterdam, which is 30 minutes north of Antwerp, and the Hague, on the North Sea and home to the International Court of Justice, which is an hour and twenty minutes.

Just The Facts

Background

Getting Around

When to Visit

Neighborhoods

Where to Stay

DRINK | Coffee

SHOP | Chocolate & Pastries

SHOP | Markets

SHOP | Wine & Booze

EAT | Lunch or Dinner

SEE | Museums

SEE | Sites

SHOP | Fashion & Style

SHOP | Design

EAT | Dinner

Gifts & Souvenirs

Day Trips

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