Stockholm, Sweden — Nick C. Bumstead

The charming capital city of Sweden is spread across 14 islands (archipelagos) and delights at every bridge crossed. Most visitors seem to stay for three days and head off to their next Nordic destination, but it’s worth digging a little deeper to fully appreciate what the city has to offer, beyond Abba, Ikea, and the Nobel Prize.

Just the Facts

Background

It is not known exactly when Stockholm was founded, but the earliest historical mention is in 1252. It quickly became the royal and administrative center of the country, but didn’t officially become the capital until 1634. By the end of the 19th century, Stockholm’s population was 300,000 and as of 2024 was 1,719,600. The original center of the city, Gamla Stan is still well preserved with buildings from the 16th and 17th centuries, including the Royal Palace. Today, the city is Sweden’s major industrial hub.

Neighborhoods

Gamla Stan: translates to “Old Town” and is the most touristy of the neighborhoods, but also has some of the most preserved medieval heritages in Europe.
Södermalm: the neighborhoods for creatives, which means it’s the neighborhood for cool shops, coffee shops, and hip vibes.
Djurgården: in the 16th century, about the only thing you’d find here was royal recreation and hunting. It was opened up to the public by Gustav III and then became a central location for museums (Skansen, Gröna Lund, the Vasa Museum and ABBA The Museum) as well as a large public park.
Östermalm: the elegant, more upscale, part of town; for New Yorkers, the equivalent to the Upper East Side.
Vasastan: a more residential neighborhood with a more local feel.

Getting Around

There are many ways to get around Stockholm: boat, bus, metro (tunnelbana), trains, trams, taxi, Uber, bike, and walking. Despite being spread out over many islands, it’s very a very manageable walking city.

When to Visit

The most popular time to visit is the summer, when you’ll experience the peak weather (and peak crowds). We visited in the off season, in October, and it was definitely chilly, but it was a quieter experience.

Where to Stay

Staying in an AirBnB always allows the opportunity to shop for local ingredients and cook at “home.” We found a great apartment in Östermalm, which was ideally located for a farmers market, shops, and a quieter, albeit upscale vibe. And while Gamla Stan is delightful to visit and walkthrough, the vibe felt a little too touristy. A hipper neighborhood and where we had some of our favorite meals was Södermalm.

In addition to the AirBnB, we also stayed at the Radisson Collection Strand Hotel for a couple of days. It’s right on the water and has a lovely breakfast buffet in the mornings. For something for fancy and boutiquey, the Ett Hem looked fantastic, and out of town on the beach, the Ellery Beach House would be a fun stay.

EAT | Breakfast & Lunch

Breakfast at Stora Bageriet | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Stora Bageriet
Close to Berzelii Park and the waterfront, this bakery / café is ideal for breakfast, lunch, or snack (fika). Opt for the classic morning bun or cardamom bun, but you won’t go wrong with a smörrebröd, such as smoked salmon with pickled vegetables, or a soup such as pea and mint. They also have a second location in Vasastan.

EAT | Lunch

Lunch @ Rosendals Trädgård | Photo Credit: ©Robin Dorian

Rosendals Trädgård
This is a pure Stockholm experience, situated in the middle of the park on Djurgården island. The greenhouse café has indoor seating in the greenhouse and outdoor seating on the patio and in the garden. Much of the food is grown in the gardens and is a real treat.

800 Grader Slice Shop
It feels a little weird to come to Stockholm and have pizza, but when the slices are this good, it’s worth it. It’s a tiny joint in Södermalm (one of the hipper parts of town) with just a few tables and a focused menu with 7 different pizza choices, including classics like margherita, pepperoni, bianca, and more creative slices, as well as wine and beer. The pizza crust is super thin and comes out crispy and charred from the oven.

Smorrebrod Options at Tysta Mari | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Östermalms Saluhall
This food hall is a temple to high end Swedish food with food stalls selling both ingredients (seafood, meat, vegetables, sweets) and prepared foods as well as sit down restaurants. Wander round and take your pick from some of the best ingredients Stockholm has to offer. Highlights include: Tysta Mari, Nybroe Smorrebrod, Lisa Elmqvist Restaurang,

Shop | Style

Svenskt Tenn | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Svenskt Tenn
If you love beautifully designed things, this place is for you. We were addicted to stopping into this shop for daily design inspiration. Founded in 1924 by Estrid Ericson, their longtime art director Josef Frank designed many pieces of furniture, lighting, and fabrics. His name is all over the place.

Grandpa | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Grandpa
One of the hipper clothing stores in Stockholm with both clothing and homewares offerings.

Stutterheim Rain Coats
Both practical and stylish, a Stutterheim rain coat is an Stockholm souvenir that will protect you not only from the Swedish rainy days, but the rains back home too.

Singular Society
Part of the H&M group, selling soft and stylish mens and womenswear as well as Scandi housewares. There are two prices on the tags, a membership price and a non-members price. If you have a local address, become a member and get significant discounts.

L'Usine Bleue
Nothing Scandi about this cool little shop in Södermalm, just stylish French workwear.

Skultuna
Founded by King Karl IX in the year 1607, this classic Swedish brand sells jewelry and home decor (candlesticks, vases, figurines) in a variety of metals.

IKEA
Started in the 1940s in a small Swedish town and now a global furniture juggernaut. It’s still fun to stop into an IKEA in its original location.

Designtorget
A fun and interesting range of home furnishings, kitchenware, postcards, books, etc. from Swedish designers.

Bobo Glassware
Super thin and elegant glassware made in Stockholm. You can find the glasses used at cocktail bar Röda Huset and restaurant Brasserie Astoria. You can make an appointment at their showroom or see a subset of their selections at Nordiska Galleriet 1912, a high end Scandinavian furniture and design store.

Shop | Food

Pärlans Konfektyr
Elegant, pretty, and tasty as well. Flavored caramels are their specialty and the local combination of liquorice and caramel is a real winner. Their shop in Södermalm is full of temptations stacked in the gorgeous boxes, but you they are sold all over town. Indulge while you are there, bring some home for yourself, but don’t forget friends and family as well.

Chokladfabriken
Chocolatier Martin Isaksson creates high-end chocolates with classic flavors, but also Swedish ingredients like sea buckthorn, gin, and dried meadow hay.

Östermalms Saluhall
Super high end ingredients available in the center of town in a beautiful food hall.

Farmers Markets
The Farmers Own Market takes place on Saturdays in both Östermalm and Södermalm with a range of stalls with local meats, vegetables, cheeses, etc. In There is also a Östermalm street market around the Karlaplan park just down the street.

Shop | Booze & Wine

Systembolaget
The only way to buy wine and spirits in Stockholm is at one of the state-sponsored stores: Systembolaget. It’s not hard to find a store (there are about 25 of them), but be aware that the hours are pretty specific. If you are looking for a fancier bottle, some of the stores have a more specialty section. Not all the stores have the same selection and some are better than others. My preferred store was at Norrlandsgatan 3. Even though Stockholm is touted as an expensive city, because it’s still in Europe, the wines seem reasonably priced as compared to the US.

See | Museums

Stockholm is rich with culture and museums and whether you have two days or two weeks, it doesn’t disappoint.

Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde | Photo Credit: ©Robin Dorian

A perfect day in Stockholm would be walking around Djurgården, checking out a few museums and having lunch at Rosendals Trädgård. There is a long list of museums to choose from: Nordiska Museet, Vasa Museum, Liljevalchs, SpritMuseum, ABBA Museum, Skansen, Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde, Thielska Galleriet. Aquarium, Snuff & Match Museum, Baltic Sea Science Center.

Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde
Formerly Prince Eugen’s residence (1865–1947) and now an art museum and sculpture garden. Both the interior and exterior are elegant and gorgeous and well worth a visit.

Vasa Museet
One of the more unique museums in Stockholm. The Vasa is a 17th-century 64-gun warship that sunk on its maiden voyage (of 20 minutes) in front of large crowds who came to watch. It was recovered in 1961 and housed in its current location in 1990. Obviously the nearly fully intact Vasa is the highlight of the museum, but the displays around the museum are fascinating.

Fotografiska
The original of the Fotografiska museums with other locations in New York (now closed), Berlin, and Shanghai. A contemporary museum with a focus on photography. Plan time to have lunch at the restaurant on the top floor that overlooks the water. In the summer, take the Fotografiska boat right to the front door.

Carl Eldhs Ateljémuseum | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Carl Eldhs Ateljémuseum
For something a little different, in a more locals part of town. The museum is located in the studio of sculptor Carl Eldh, a prominent 20th century artist.

Moderna Museet
Walk over the Skeppsholmsbron bridge with gilded crown in the middle and head up the hill on Skeppsholmen Island to the contemporary and modern art museum. Beautiful works of art from Swedish and international artists and a café and restaurant with views of the city.

See | Archipelagos

Stromma Archipelago Tour
Tour the archipelagos in a classic, vintage boat. Whether you opt for a ride to Drottningholm Palace, a half day tour, or a full day thousand island tour, it’s worth getting out on the water — it’s almost a Stockholm requirement.

Eat | Lunch & Dinner

Pizza at Solen | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Solen
Take a ride, walk, train south to the Slakthus neighborhood, the former meatpacking district, and now home of the Avicii Arena (the golfball-like indoor arena) and Tele2 Arena (hosting football matches and concerts). Serving a range of Mediterranean, Middle-eastern, and South American cuisines, some of which is cooked in a wood-fired oven or over open flames. The decor is a blend of chic industrial and modern.

Fika & Candy

Fika is the glorious Swedish habit of taking some time during the day (morning or afternoon) to meet up at a café for a coffee and some cake. Classic Swedish fika include: cardamom or cinnamon buns, Princess Torte, Dammsugare (the classic Swedish vacuum cleaner), Chokladbollar (chocolate balls coated with shredded coconut), Småkakor (small cookies), Shortbread Butter Cookies, Mazarin (almond tarts), Bärtårta (berry tart), Kardemummakaka (cardamom cake), Rulltårta (roll cake). There are many, many places in Stockholm worth enjoying your daily Fika.

Fabrique
Founded in 2008, with numerous spots around Stockholm for fika, especially the cardamom buns, but also bread and other pastries. There are also outposts in New York and London.

Café & Bageri Pascal
If you walk past these bakeries at certain times, it might look like a stroller parking lot (inside as well). But that’s because the locals love these spots for a fika break. Some of the best pastries and coffee in town.

Drop Coffee
Serious about their coffee with excellent espresso and other coffee drinks — the pastries are up to scratch as well.

Also to try: Green Rabbit (from Matthias Dahlgren), Vete-Katten (the gold standard of Stockholm's traditional cafés).

See | Local Sites

Stockholm Stadsbibliotek (Public Library)
Designed by Swedish architect Gunnar Asplund in the style of Swedish Grace. Obviously if books are your thing, browse around and enjoy the collection, but no matter your interest, don’t miss the rotunda, which feels like a temple to the book.

For lots of local history, walk the bridges over to Helgeandsholmen and then Gamla Stan to tour The Royal Palace, Tessin Palace, The Royal Armoury, Riksdag (Stockholm’s Parliament House), and Storkyrkan (a medieval cathedral) — they are all very close to each other. If you just want some royal souvenir swag to take home, skip the tour and hit the Royal Palace shop.

Relax | Spa

Yasuragi Japanese Spa & Restaurant
Just a taxi ride away from the city center, discover your zen place with idyllic views and peaceful tranquillity at this combination hotel, spa, and restaurant. An ideal day trip even in the colder months. A day package includes full access to the Japanese baths, saunas, activities (such as a sound journey or yoga), as well as a Japanese lunch.

Drink | Cocktails

The Mountain Birch at Röda Huset | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Röda Huset
On the second floor and overlooking Sergel Fountain, this bar is ranked 31 in the World’s 50 Best Bars and deservedly so. The cocktails are all Nordic focused using Swedish produce. For a boozy twist on a classic, order the Mountain Birch, a Martini variation flavored with mountain birch oil and spruce. The Rhubarb & Figs is also worth a try with cold-pressed rhubarb flavored with Campari and gin and topped with a foam on roasted fig leaves.

In addition to Röda Huset, there are more bars from the World’s 50 Best Bars list in Stockholm, including: A Bar Called Gemma, Tjoget (which also is a restaurant in addition to a cocktail bar). The bartender who served us at Röda Huset recommended Lucy’s Flower Shop, Le Hibou in the Bank Hotel, Paradiso, and the Hernö Gin Bar. She also recommended the wine bar Tyge & Sessil.

Eat | Dinner

Pointed Cabbage with Chicken Liver Capers, Buckwheat, Chicken Jus at Bar Agrikultur | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Bar Agrikultur
A small, cosy wine bar located in Södermalm offering a range of dishes made with seasonal Swedish ingredients. The food is excellent and perfect for sharing. The wine list is filled with interesting and well priced bottles. They keep some seats for walk-ins, but I’d book ahead because it gets crowded.

Kagges
Yes it’s located in the most touristy section of Stockholm, Gamla Stan, but it’s still a great spot. The food is modern Scandinavian, but in a comforting way, not a cold, stuffy, tweezery way. We sat at the counter, and were glad we did, because you can witness all the kitchen action, which feels a bit more intimate, like hanging out at the counter of a friend’s kitchen. The wine list doesn’t disappoint either. And you are allowed to write on the wall in the bathroom.

Cafe Nizza
Another small spot in Södermalm, which is worth booking ahead because we saw several hopeful diners turned away at the door. The emphasis here is on southern France and northern Italy. They have a nifty little wine list with small production wines. The snacks are perfect to enjoy with an aperitif (vermouth or spritz) — a tin of anchovies always delights. The main menu is small, but focused with a few main dishes and pastas (they are known for their fermentata cacio e pepe).

Brasserie Astoria
From the street, Brasserie Astoria doesn’t look that interesting, but once you walk in and head down the stairs, you realize there is a large two-story restaurant scene happening (it used to be a cinema). The menus are filled with classics: cocktails, an extensive wine list, and French dishes like tartar, gougères, snails, mussels, duck frites. There are some creative twists, but there is a comfort in the classics.

Mathias Dahlgren Matbaren
This was our splurge night, and while it was still expensive, it was nowhere near as expensive other fancy places in town. It feels upscale, but with a casual vibe. And I loved the flexibility of the ordering: you order one course at a time and stop when you are satisfied. The food consists of lots of fun twists: hotdog with truffle, potato emulsion, roasted onion; mushroom croquettes with truffle; butter fried chantarelles with 63° egg, porcini purée; steamed bun with Adobo pork belly. You can also choose a menu along with pairings, if that’s your thing. The wine list is expansive and intimidating, but there are some gems in there.

Restaurang Oxenstiernan
Perfectly local for us in Östermalm as it was just down the street from our rented apartment and located in Krubban's park / playground. It’s housed in a historic building from the 18th century, but the food is a modern interpretation of Swedish classics, using local and sustainable products, and a no-waste philosophy. Even the plates, glasses, and flatware are made by local designers. I even found a favorite wine on their list, the Frantz Saumon Montlouis Mineral +.

Take Home

Gin or Akvavit from Stockholm Bränneri
The gin is a Nordic take on a traditional dry gin, but not in a too floral, untraditional way. The akvavit is infused with dill flower, caraway, fennel seeds, and elderflower, as well as juniper and coriander. Carry them home (or buy it at home, both are also available at Total Wine), freeze them, and pair them with some smoked salmon and dill.

Glasses
Buy either the Dragga for cocktails or Nubbe for aquavit from Bobo.

Napkins from The Royal Palace Gift Shop
You don’t actually have to visit the Royal Palace to shop at the gift shop. In addition to cocktail napkins, they have all kinds royal-type gifts.

Kalles Original
Found everywhere and Sweden, it’s been a classic since 1954. Coe roe spread that is typically served with boiled eggs, on rye crackers, or used in sandwiches.